Granted, these shades are a way off from the Astroturf green or acid-yellow colours favoured by high-fashion labels in 2022, but in the context of Brunello Cucinelli, which is known for its steadfast reliance on neutral shades, it feels like a bold statement; a little off-piste for the brand, perhaps, but entirely in keeping with the adventurous themes of the collection.
So far, so conceptual – Brunello Cucinelli certainly has a way of conjuring a mood – but let’s get down to the nitty gritty. What are the clothes actually like? Fans of the brand will immediately recognise the signature craftsmanship, which is as top-notch as ever and reflects the fact that all clothes are lovingly made in the workshops of the picturesque Italian hamlet of Solomeo in Umbria. Big-ticket items such as the suede field jacket, the silk and linen-blend unstructured suit and the slim-fit linen bomber jacket are the epitome of refined Italian tailoring, peerless in their construction and uncompromising in their material choice. (This is the brand, let’s not forget, that introduced us to sneakers with cashmere laces.)